To Hambantota & Back: Retracing the roots (Part I)

Twenty-first day of November emerged as a day with a lot of excitement. I awoke due to the efforts of emak, if not punctuality would have had to a back seat. We commenced our journey, along with the representatives of ABIM, having to complete a distance of approx 300km. Given the dilapidated conditions of the local roads covering that distance would take about 6 hours. The route taken towards H’tota snaked through the foothills of Ratnapura- a land held in high esteem for extracting gemstones of all types. Ratnapura is not situated on a very high altitude, but having said that, one can witness mountain ranges in the distance. Rubber plantations and low-grown tea estates can be seen within close proximity to each other. Most were started during the colonial occupation of lanka, while recent plantations too can be found. Travelling was interesting through half-way when a sing-song erupted by request of the M’sians. I entered the foray with some songs of local baila, the M’sians came out with songs in the likes of ‘rasa sayang’ etc.

H’tota is a city situated south-west of the island famous for its fresh fish, curd, and of course, dodol. Geographically, H’tota is in the low lands, thus mostly a dry area dotted with fishing boats and vast expansion of land. Majority of the residents comprise of Malays (mostly of middle and lower-income segments), and during the fateful tsunami of 2004 many were taken away to sea never to be seen again. Tales of woes are endless with everyone here having a story of their own to tell. During January 2005, when I went there with an aid convoy, I met a man who had lost his wife and children to the killer waves. That man hardly spoke a whole sentence with bapa; he was in another dimension, still not being able to grasp the fate that had befallen him. I must say, 4 years on, the entire landscape of H’tota looked alien to me. A lot of development has taken place in this district beckoning the change it longed for.

Our places of lodging were two cottages constructed for those who had lost their homes in the tsunami. I saw many housing schemes of this sort, which had been funded by NGOs jogging my memory of how bankrupt lanka truly is, or the fact that administrators even pocketed tsunami aid money. I ask you how sad is that? The two cottages comprised of the basic amenities needed for a simple life. One thing I envy about life here is its simplicity. People seem to have ample time to sit around and enjoy the finer aspects of life without the constant worry of city folk. Life here flows smoothly like water coursing its way through a stream. I really want that kind of life!!

Lights out at 10pm to me is unheard of, but the journey was quite tiring. Travelling along the winding, bumpy, and not to mention zero-patience roads of lanka bestows one fatigue in great proportions. Driving skills are quite exemplary of the local cum dare-devil chauffeurs having to manoeuvre pot-holes, sharp turns, narrow passages, and overtaking other slow drivers. It got me thinking that if a person can prove himself on local roads, driving anywhere else in the world would be a piece of cake.

Here onwards, the tale starts of the only Malay colonies still in existence and their grappling problems and challenges in conserving the Malay identity, its language, culture, and heritage.